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Spring 16

There is a complicity between
the very young and the very old.
It’s obvious to anyone who’s watched grandparents with their grandchildren.
The fashion industry, obsessed with youth and novelty, is the last place you’d expect
to and trenchant commentary on this relationship.
Raf never knew his grandfathers but he has become familiar with their idiosyncrasies through photographs With tailored trousers competing for face time with baggier silhouettes, Raf reminds us that for all the of the bold (and even graphic) material that he’s produced, it’s his details that really shine The way clothing shapes and expresses identity has been an obsession of Simons’ from the
very beginning of his career. That’s what his gangs were always about. So when he said tonight’s
collection was “very gang,” you instantly knew what he meant
The hoods were the biggest clue. Half of the models walked with heads wrapped in check shrouds, vision obscured to the point where at least a couple of them pitched off the raised catwalk. Monastic, in other words Needless to say, the most discussed piece would be the cropped knits, crafted to look like they were discovered in your grandparents’ attic, devoured by moths. Naturally they have the boyish charm that’s inherent to Raf’s design history, but there’s no getting around the fact that trying to wear one will leave you looking like Kid Cudi at Coachella crossed with your grandmother What sort of dangerous things were these boys up to? “Generation communication” has been Simons’ motivator from day one.
So he said. Here was visible backup.
It was abstract,
to be sure
All things must pass Well, considering that two of the models fell off the stage
because of those hoodies, one could argue that just walking in a
Simons show is taking your life into your own hands.
Mark Leckey’s titanic piece of celluloid mythmaking It all made for a well-rounded Simons show, where lots of
questions were posed and very little answers given – just the way
the designer likes it.
Raf’s past for sure, but his young models could
find equivalents in their own lives
Hood for thought And that is the enduring melancholy that touches everything Raf Simons does. It’s a statement that was seen through the madras-print hoods that models wore on the runway –
even though it resulted in a few of Raf’s boys falling off the runway, ironically due to lack of vision.
... Oh and before we forget, those
coked-out adidas were fire.
The grim reaper madras hoodies worn by the male models on the raised Raf Simons catwalk
de nitely produced the desired effect. They obscured the models faces while they
walked fast, and in packs, as they lugged over their shoulders long thick plastic chains
hauling weighty bags behind them. It made for a disquieting and eerie mood.
There is a complicity between
the very young and the very old.
It’s obvious to anyone who’s watched grandparents with their grandchildren.
The fashion industry, obsessed with youth and novelty, is the last place you’d expect
to and trenchant commentary on this relationship.
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show and website music
"Raised" by IVVVO